Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Can't remember what the knife set up looked like. Sorry too many moons have passed. LOL The biggest thing about a Rounder, is when starting a bale, is to start on one side and weave from side to side, trying to keep bale core even. Once bale forms and starts rolling good, you can slow down the weaving some. Just remember to keep building the ends of the bale up and don't worry about the middle, it will take care of itself.
If you let the ends get smaller than the center the outside belt will slip over the bale. Not good because then you have to kick bale out, unroll by hand, and rebale it.
Where you located? If close to me I could drop by and show ya how it's done. Don't know about the 5500, but I used to run a 5800 Rounder.
It had the extra floor roller for baling corn stalks and such. It would make bales so tight, you could not get a center spear in them. Had to go buy a bale fork that picked them up from underneath. Wish I'd never sold that baler.
Here's a tip for anyone who runs belt type balers. These machines will build a static charge as the belts run over the rollers.
This static will cause bearings to fail prematurely. The 5800 used to eat bearings like a kid does candy, until I welded a piece of chain to the frame and let it drag on the ground. Once I done that, rarely lost a bearing then. My first roller was a Hesston and I don't remember the model. It rolled 5x6 bales and had fairly narrow belts when compared to JD balers of the same period and size. It had two tie arms that crossed over the center to snag the twine then they moved in tandem to the outside of the bale.
I think the tie mechanism was mechanical. It was a $3k baler coming and going. What I liked about it was that you could see your twine wrappings on your bale (adequate space between the narrower belts that JD didn't have) ensuring that you had a good wrap before opening the gate.
What I didn't like was that it was hard to get stemmy (sudan/sorghum) rolls to start. I don't remember having any problems with it other than replacing some pick up fingers which wasn't all that much of a job once I decided I was going to do it. Good older lower capacity round baler. The narrow belts can be a pain in dry slick hay but you can learn the tricks to keep it going. The biggest issue would be parts. AGCO is making many of the older parts out of gold now.
Simple pins and things maybe $50 or more. I am finding that AGCO parts make JD look cheap at time.
The real question is what you can buy it for. I would say no more than $2000-2500 if it is sheded and looks good. Rough would be more like $1200-1500. As far as HP required?? Neighbor ran his for years with a JD 2440. Later traded up to a JD 2555 but had no trouble with either.
I have a 5510 and am am asking the same question. It is a light duty machine and is slower than most of my neighbors' balers. Some of this may because it is a single twine baler, I have had it for about 25 years and make about 150 bales per year, If I was making more than that amount I would look for something of a later model. I am interested in the other comments. The similar (same) machine bore the IHC and MF name, I pull mine with a IHC 986 but I am sure a much smaller tractor would work well. 986 has about 100 hp but think my 574 (50 hp) would be enough.
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You are logged in as a guest. ( ) Problems starting bales with round baler, Help please! Jump to page: Now viewing page 1 50 messages per page:: - Message format K-Stater Posted 6/4/2006 22:42 (#17089) Subject: Problems starting bales with round baler, Help please!
Just bought a Hesston model 5500 round baler in good condition. I know that older round balers have their fits, but it seems like if we have the least bit of moisture in our brome hay it has trouble starting a bale. We around 20 bales yesterday evening with no problems but when it got dark it didn't take very long before it decided the hay was too tough. I'm not much for knowlege of round balers as this is really my 1st one.
What are the ideal conditions for a hesston 5500 baler in good brome hay? Also what are some helpful tips for starting out a bale? We had trouble making our 1st bale yesterday and then started in the windrow weaving. What do you guys think. Sorry if any of this sounds dumb.
This is really my 1st experience with a round baler. Guest Posted 6/4/2006 23:12 (#17113 - in reply to #17089) Subject: RE: Problems starting bales with round baler, Help please! When we first got a round baler it was a Hesston that was an older model than the one you have. On our first tripp to the field with it we swore it would'nt bale at all!
It takes some trial and error to figure out how the old girls work. I think ours worked best by starting the windrow on the right side of the baler and driving at an angle to get hay all the way across the pickup and getting the roll started from side to side first. After the roll gets started, it would usually go ahead and bale. It had harder problems with long slick hay. We now use a Hesston 5580 and with an open throat it starts much more easily.
K-Stater Posted 6/4/2006 23:41 (#17133 - in reply to #17089) Subject: RE: Problems starting bales with round baler, Help please! When it plugs up it plugs the metal roller behind the pickup. My manual says this is an open throat baler, closed throat has a flat belt on the bottom right? Our belts have a herringbone pattern on them and are smooth on the inside. We just got frustrated with this baler plugging because we were trying to beat out a rain that just suddenly came out of nowhere.
I think it will do OK once I find some dryer hay and have the time to not push this baler. Thanks for the advice so far, keep it coming if you have it. What's wrong with the chain balers? Just curious.
5500 Hesston Round Baler Parts
K-Stater Posted 6/5/2006 00:19 (#17150 - in reply to #17133) Subject: RE: Why chain balers suck! The belts have plenty of tread left on them, so I can't see why that would be the problem. They hay we were trying to bale today probably wouldn't have gone through a newer baler. Had been rained on and was still kind of damp. I think patience is the solution to my problem with this baler.
Hesston 5500 Baler Parts Manual
Posted 6/5/2006 05:57 (#17178 - in reply to #17133) Subject: RE: Why chain balers suck! Brazilton KS Rich, I wouldn't want a chain baler compared to a modern belt baler, but give me a choice between the first 850 NewHolland built and any 5500 Hesston and I wouldn't have much trouble deciding.let the NewHolland be an 855 and I'd take it over some later model belt balers if it was in better condition. I think we broke three or four chains in the 15 years or so that we ran our 852, and I doubt any of those occured when the chains were not worn beyond 100%. First year with the 664 seemed like if my brother wasn't off the baler tractor pulling something out of the windrow for fear of tearing up a belt, then I was off the rake doing the same thing.Pretty much just drove that old 852, if it would go through the pickup it would be in the bale.we used to bale some rought stuff and it could be kinda comical what you would find in the bale feeder. The first round baler we used was a 5500 and our experience wasn't much different then K-State's.spent lots of time trying to get belts untangled and back where they belonged, or unplugging and dumping the wad out to try again when it wouldn't start a bale. The modern belts don't seem to have so much trouble anymore.
Posted 6/5/2006 07:26 (#17194 - in reply to #17089) Subject: Windrow. First thing to do is get your windrow the width of the pickup. If you can't do that, leave the pto off on the baler and pull up into the windrow until the enough hay is pushed up in front to cover the full width of the pickup. Don't like that idea, move over and pick up the little windrows from a 90 degree angle till the roll starts and then go back to your windrow. Tim Posted 6/5/2006 13:19 (#17268 - in reply to #17089) Subject: Re: Problems starting bales with round baler, Help please!
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Little River, TX Not familiar with your grass, for hay, but with bermudagrass hay and sorghum sudan hays the leaves shatter as much or more as alfalfa will. To check it watch the accumulation of leaves below the baler when you stop to tie. The key to leaf shatter: Hay will shatter only very slightly when the humidity inside the windrow is at or above 70%. This humidity will also encourage, sweating, heating, or mold. As the windrow humidity decreased down to 65% to 55% the leaf shatter will increase.
Hesston Rounder 5500 Specs
Thing about grass hay is a bale of stems still can look good, while alfalfa will look like a bundle of sticks. Mostlie Posted 6/6/2006 13:21 (#17533 - in reply to #17150) Subject: RE: Why chain balers suck! Say what you want, but my old NH 846 still works. I only make about 300 bales a year though. It is also cheap to maintain. It seams too be more fussy when trying to start thin dry grass on a field that needs to be redone. Posted 6/6/2006 14:50 (#17553 - in reply to #17268) Subject: Re: Problems starting bales with round baler, Help please!
NE SD Rich is right on the Brome.most of what our haying is. It's best to start baling Brome at about noon and go through the heat of the day.
Once in a while we'll keep baling into the night if its breezy and/or there is no dew. Not much your gonna lose with Brome. On the other hand, I like to start baling straw about midnight and run most of the night.or during the day after a sprinkle, etc. Jump to page: Now viewing page 1 50 messages per page Jump to forum:.
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